Curly hair is on the rise and we can thank the positive and empowering movements of the body. Small guide for wavy, curly, curly and frizzy hair.
When it comes to structured hair, this is six out of ten people in the world and 45% of French men and women *. “And in Generation Z (people born between 1995 and today, ed), more than 50% of the population has this profile, says Jean-Michel Gaudineau, educator from Kérastase. However, today, only 5% of hairdressers are trained on the subject, denounce again.“ The brand for professionals is also born master class to compensate for this lack of diversity in the hairdressing world. This observation led Morgane Brisson to open Baraboucle in 2018, mainly dedicated to textured lengths. With success: last year you opened a second salon in Paris and it takes at least two months to wait for an appointment.
This is confirmed by Ylanaé, a hairdresser by training and to whom, at the request of her manager while working in the salon, a client with frizzy hair has already been refused. “Unfortunately, profitability is often a priority, and when you have to spend 45 minutes with a client for the same price, salons prefer to do without it …”, she analyzes. This is also one of the reasons that led him to start his own business and launch Coach My Curls, his online hair coaching program for textured hair. She is also a ®️Rëzocut certified hairdresser, a dry hair cutting technique developed in the United States.
As for the products, the conclusion is the same. “When I decided to stop straightening my hair, I was faced with an abysmal void because few ranges really matched my nature and my green beliefs”, recalls Sofia Taleb Benjelloun, founder of Kurl Power, a brand of solid cosmetics for structured hair. “That’s how I started to get interested in it and I realized that I wasn’t the only one who wanted to go back to nature “, says thea young woman, who improvised a pharmacy in her kitchen for lack of choice. This is also exactly the same way Kelly Massol started before launching Les Secrets de Loly, a clean brand for structured hair, in 2009.
What to know about your curly hair
For beautiful curls, it’s good to understand what your hair is like. “The structure of a structured hair is no different from that of a smooth hairexplains Jean-Michel Gaudineau. But unlike the latter, its implantation at the level of the hair follicle in the dermis is angled, which explains this spiral convolution. Consequence: the hair fiber is flat and not round like that of straight hair. ” Its fragility and its tendency to break is explained precisely by this wrapping around itself. In places where the hair is folded, its diameter is thinner and the scales tend to rise. This makes it very vulnerable to external aggression.
Another important interpretation: structured hair is not naturally dry. In reality, the sebum produced at the root level and which should hydrate the fiber along its entire length to the ends simply does not reach its destination, because the spiral shape of the hair slows down its flow …
The right routine for structured hair
All the experts agree on one point: a good routine is the most important element in the search for beautiful curls. Goodbye to hair products that are absolutely not designed for all hair types, goodbye to shea butter as the one and only ally: now the brands are also thinking about textured hair.
1. Wash it. The choice of shampoo is essential. We prefer it soft and free of sulphates, with the aim of eliminating impurities and residues of sweat or pollution, without at the same time absorbing the lipidic sebum of the hair, nor attacking the scalp.
2. Hydrate it. With the help of your choice of conditioner, hair milk or even a primer. “ To know if a product is moisturizing, just look at the composition of the latter.recommends Kelly Massol. If the water comes first or second, then it is. However, we do not hydrate a noose every day, with the risk of weighing it down. “We talk so much about hydration that some people hydrate too much, warns the specialist. Result: the scale swells and we end up with a lot of frizz. And paradoxically, the hair is drier. ” It’s clean? In the ingredients of the house we find corn starch (corn starch) which is used as a mask (the recipe is easily found in a few clicks), flaxseed gel, honey or aloe vera.
3. Feed him. After drinking, the hair needs to eat. This is where nutritional care comes in, which will strengthen it. We prefer oils, serums, creams or even butters. This essential step will seal the hydration. It’s clean? As for the natural oils, we choose those of jojoba, avocado and / or nigel, which we leave on for at least 2-3 hours, or even overnight if the hair is really with split ends and brittle. But in case of prolonged exposure, avoid applying the oil to the root, for fear of suffocating the scalp.
4. Strengthen it. From time to time, we think about giving it a protein cure. It is the keratin contained in the hair fiber that allows a beautiful fleshy curl. When the latter appears sad, we opt for fortifying treatments, ideally rich in keratin, rice or silk proteins or even provitamin B5. It’s clean? A teaspoon of protein active ingredients, such as spirulina powder, is added to a mask.
* OpinionWay survey for Kurl Power.
Photo credits: photo Bruno Juminer; Directed by Dominique Evêque